Copyright © Françoise Herrmann
Smudgeproof and waterproof makeup are two very desirable make-up
properties. Waterproof so that you can swim and sweat under the tropical sun; dance and sweat
at a disco party; or work under the limelight many hours a day if you are an
actress or actor, a performer or a model. Smudgeproof so the make-up resists
the natural oils of the skin. Thus, there are make-up compositions
of all sorts (for lips, eyes and face) that are effectively and pleasantly
waterproof, smudgeproof and long lasting. Problem solved and patented.
However, once the above dysfunctions are resolved in oil-based
waterproof formulations, it also becomes very difficult to remove waterproof
make-up with conventional non-waterproof make-up remover. Long lasting and
waterproof makeup really works, and without a make-up remover designed
specifically for removing of it, you will experience serious
difficulty removing the make-up… (Barbery-Coulon, 2014)
In comes L’Oréal, the French cosmetics giant: a recent champion of
alternatives to animal testing, with a research agenda committed to the
diversity of beauty, including ethnic and age differences in traditional skin or
hair types; a commitment to the principles of green chemistry and responsible sourcing
of raw materials; a workforce that boasts 70 % women (!), and both fellowship and
foundation programs that support women in the sciences.
An early L’Oréal make-up remover
for Waterproof (WP) and Non-Waterproof make-up (NWP) is US5165917 titled Eye make-up
remover with two separate phases. The patent discloses a composition that
is both effective and pleasant or comfortable for removing WP and NWP eye
makeup. The composition disclosed
includes two synergistic phases: an aqueous phase with at least one surfactant,
and an oily phase with at least one cosmetic oil. Experimentation results are
also presented to highlight both the effectiveness (make-up removal) and
cosmetic properties (comfort and appearance) afforded by various formulations,
with evidence in support of a 70:30 or 60:40 ratio of the two phases.
The abstract for US5165917 titled
Eye make-up remover with two separate
phases is included below with an image of the marketed product, l’Oréal
Artiste long lasting and water proof eye make-up remover:
A composition suitable for effective and comfortable removal
of both waterproof and non-waterproof eye makeup is disclosed which includes an
aqueous phase containing at least one surfactant and an oily phase containing
at least one cosmetic oil. The surfactant concentration may be up to 3 wt % of
the total weight of the composition. The weight ratio of the aqueous phase and
the oily phase may be from 30:70 to 60:40. [US5165917]
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Reference
Barbery-Coulon, L. (2014).Mascara Waterproof. Le Magazine du Monde. Le Monde,
8-8-2014.
http://www.lemonde.fr/style/article/2014/08/08/le-mascara-waterproof_4467920_1575563.html
L’oréal
Research and innovation in key figures
Paperclip-listed …
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