Since November 2013, Dior cutting-edge
science is carried out at the LVHM Perfume and Cosmetics Research Center in
Saint Jean de Braye, located at the Parfums Christian Dior compound. LHVM,
the Moêt-Hennessy-Louis Vuitton luxury goods conglomerate, includes Dior as
major shareholder, together with 69 additional prestigious luxury companies such
as Givenchy, Guerlain, Céline, Kenzo, Marc Jacobs, Fendi and Loro Piana.
More than 1000 varieties of roses exist.
The preferred rose variety for the formulation of a Dior product marketed as
Dior Prestige Micro Rose Oil is the Granville Rose, registered as the Jardin de
Granville® rose, patented as a Floriunda
rose variety, named Evanrat (US plant
patent PP24658).
The Dior Prestige Micro Rose Oil cosmetic product delivers to the skin the Rose de Granville's own vitality and energy via
10,000 micro-pearls. The advanced delivery system offers the penetration of a
serum and the comfort of oil. Dior Prestige Micro Rose Oil is a booster designed to maximize the effectiveness of any daily moisturizing routine.
The Dior Micro Rose Oil pre-serum was
awarded the WIPO (World Intellectual Property Organization) patent WO2018210947A1 titled Cosmetic composition comprising rose
extracts. LVHM applied for the patent on May 16, 2018. The application was
published on November 22, 2018. The inventors are Marc Dumas [FR], Jocelyn
Franchi [FR], Jeronimo Valenti [FR], Virginie Pecher [FR], and Kristell Lazou
[FR].
The composition comprises two different
Granville Rose extracts: an aqueous rose extract obtained using a patented cryoextraction process, and a rose satin
oil extract obtained via a patented dynamic
enfleurage process. The in vitro invention
research on normal human keratinocyte cells demonstrated that the aqueous
extract stimulates the expression of period genes (PER1 and
PER3) and the cryptochrome circadian clock
2 gene (CRY 2), while the satin oil extract has a complementary impact on the expression of the period gene (PER2). A set of genes found in
every cell, which regulates the natural circadian processes of the skin, and/or
the micro-nutritional balance of the skin.
The prior art of cosmetic products brings such
micro-nutrients to the skin as vitamins (A, E and C) for protection and
nutrition, oleic acid (mono-unsaturated omega 9 fatty acid) for repair, healing
and nutrition or alpha-linolenic (omega 3
fatty acid) because of its anti-inflammatory properties, among others. However,
there is also a need to stimulate such processes as hydration, skin regeneration
and the protective skin barrier. Thus, the Rose de Granville double extract invention offers to directly impact the expression of clock and circadian rhythm
genes of the skin, which are known to regulate such skin processes as
hydration, regeneration and repair, or the resistance of the protective skin
barrier.
The extracts were also demonstrated to have an impact on some of the 5000 genes controlled by
period and clock genes, 5000 genes that control such pathways as fat
metabolism, sugar metabolism, and calcium homeostasis. In particular the
inventors found effects on such circadian clock-controlled genes as calmodulin
3 (CALM3), which binds calcium and participates in cellular cycles, and keratin
1 (KRT1) which participates in cellular differentiation, among many others.
Thus, the synergistic invention formulation
of the Rose the Granville extracts is designed to have an impact on the natural
rhythms of the skin, controlled by circadian clock genes, as well as on some of the clock
gene targets, in view of stimulating and /or improving the skin’s
micro-nutritional balance, and such processes as hydration, repair, barrier
protection and the skin’s fat metabolism.
The abstract of this invention is included
below, together with an image of the marketed Dior Prestige Micro-pearls Rose
oil product.
The présent invention relates to a cosmetic composition for topical application to the skin comprising, in a physiologically acceptable médium, at least an effective amount of at least one aqueous extract of rose and of at least one oily extract of rose, and the use thereof in particular for promoting the natural rhythmic process of skin cells and/or improving the micro -nutritional balance of the skin. [Abstract WO2018210947A1]
References
LVHM Hélios Perfume & Cosmetics Research Center – Saint Jean de Braye
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