One hundred-and-fifty years
after the Levi Strauss copper rivet changed the world of work clothes, during the Gold
Rush in California, Levi Strauss
is pioneering the apparel industry anew with Future-Led Execution (F.L.X.) processes (Levi Strauss Staff, 2018). F.L.X. invokes digital production, and in particular laser finishing.
Consistent with a longstanding interest in sustainability, the company committed to producing a cleaner, more climate-friendly jean, using streamlined digital processes. Processes, such as laser finishing, that eliminate the use and discharge of harmful chemicals (e.g., potassium permanganate), while maximizing the customization of jeans, and improving working conditions (e.g., Ong, 2018). In particular, laser finishing has replaced such previously time-consuming manual labor, invoked for baking, whiskering, hand-sanding, grinding, scrunching, chemically treating, and rinsing excess residues, to make jeans look worn and faded.
Laser finishing uses infrared technology to scratch the surface of jeans, while executing digital drawings of the desired vintage characteristics. A process that takes about 90 seconds to complete, per jean. (See video below.) A process that replaces the lengthy drawing board process, and the previous 18 to 20 manual finishing steps, taking 10 to 30 minutes per jean, depending on the design. A process that also makes possible all the desirable aspects of jeans manufacture. For example, laser finishing enables such prized processes as on-demand production, unparalleled customization, and dramatic scaling of production, since digital, production-ready files can be sent directly to supply factories for unprecedented production response. Conversely, laser finishing also supports custom online Future Finish® design, and potentially mini local production units at retail stores (Levi Strauss Staff, July 2019a and July 2019b; Velasquez, 2019), or even, event-based mobile production units (US11208761B2).
Arguably one of the most exciting transformations in jeans manufacturing, F.L.X. both dramatically streamlines, and accelerates, every aspect of the complete process, from concept to production. Indeed, on the strength of its success, Levi Strauss now organizes company-wide hackathons to determine which additional company processes might be as successfully digitized and made more sustainable (Cazares et al. 2022).
Both processes and hardware subsumed in laser finishing are well patented. The following applications are a few samples of the patents pending, and patents granted, reciting the many aspects of the laser finishing invention. The sample list also includes an application and patent, each reciting the specifications of garments, most responsive to the new laser finishing invention.
- US20180049497A1 - Using laser to create finishing pattern on apparel.
- US20180165736A1 - Using fabric templates to obtain multiple finishes by laser finishing.
- US20190261716A1 - On-demand manufacturing of apparel by laser finishing fabric rolls.
- US20200063319A1 - Laser finishing of garments by mobile lab.
- US11208761B2 - Clothing with enhanced response characteristics for laser finishing.
References
Cazares, M. et al. (FE.
28, 2002) LS&Co. Hackathons – Designed for everyone.
https://www.levistrauss.com/2022/02/28/lsco-hackathons-designed-for-everyone/
https://www.levistrauss.com/2022/02/28/lsco-hackathons-designed-for-everyone/
Ong, T. (2018). Levi’s® will use lasers to ethically create the finishes on all of its jeans – The Verge.
Staff (Juy 2019a). Levi’s presents Future Finish®. Off the Cuff.
Staff (July 24, 2019b). Future Finish®, a new way to customize your denim.
Velasquez, A. (July 24, 2019). Levi’s® doubles down on Laser technology with new customization platform.
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