Oh, patents! Cartier's Promenade d'une panthère watch

Copyright © Françoise Herrmann

Cartier’s Promenade d’une panthère timepiece is a watchmaking masterpiece. The timepiece was presented at the 2012 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH). A private, invitation-only, luxury watch event, previously held in Geneva, Switzerland, intended for leading retailers, professional watchmakers, journalists, and VIP watch collectors.* 

In a nutshell, the patented masterpiece consists in translating the oscillating weight, or rotor, of a self-winding watch, to Cartier’s iconic panther, pivoting on a ball bearing, so that it is the panther that oscillates, on top of the clockwork, with every movement of the user’s wrist. Animating oscillations that make it look like the panther is prowling around the clock. 

The result is a playful tour de force, embodied in a high jewelry timepiece. The outer oscillating weight is attached to a gold case, bezel-set with 400 brilliant-cut diamonds for a total of 6.18 carats. The panther figurine is also set with 208 brilliant-cut diamonds, totaling 0.42 carats, and black lacquer spots. The alligator leather strap has an adjustable folding buckle, set with 43 brilliant-cut diamonds, totaling 0.42 carats.

Below, a short YouTube video showing the oscillating weight complication, functioning as a (prowling) panther.

Cartier’s Promenade d’une panthère timepiece was granted the European patent, EP2737372B1, titled: Pivoted oscillating weight on the outside of a clockwork and clockwork provided with such an oscillating weight. The patent was awarded on April 9th, 2019, to Carole Kasapi and Laurent Dechaumont, and assigned to Cartier International AG, in Switzerland.

Below, the patent Figure 1, and a sample marketed model of the Cartier Promenade d’une panthère timepiece, embodying the invention. The patent Figure 1 shows the oscillating weight of the timepiece, translated to a 180-degree central part (in this embodiment, the panther) 7. The central (panther) part 7, attached to an annular frame 4, pivots on a ball bearing, at the periphery of a  cage 2, attached to the clockwork plate 3, without interfering with the visualization of the timepiece's hand movement. The central (panther) part 7, together with the annular frame 4, are screwed to an annular cage 1 with screws 5. The central (panther) part  7, forms a 180-degree unbalanced section, augmented by the unbalanced weight of the attached annular frame 4, which has apertures 6, on its lighter 180-degree arc, opposite the central (panther) part 7.  

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Note: SIHH (in English, International Watchmaker and High Jewelry Trade Show). The SIHH tradeshow, previously held annually at the Palexpo Convention Center in Geneva, Switzerland, is now replaced by the Watches and Wonders Geneva annual tradeshow.

References
Cartier (website)
https://www.cartier.com/en-us/home
Watches and Wonders Geneva
https://www.watchesandwonders.com/en/geneva-2024/event

Interlude - Amy Sherald at the SFMOMA

 Copyright © Françoise Herrmann

From November 16th, 2024, to March 9th, 2025, the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (SFMOMA) is hosting the largest-ever collection of Amy Sherald oil-on-canvas paintings. The exhibit, titled Amy Sherald: American Sublime, displays nearly 50 portraits, from 2007 to 2024, of mostly everyday black Americans, consistent with her desire to engage viewers in a more complex understanding of American identity. Best known for her 2018 portrait of Michelle LaVaughn Robinson Obama, which usually hangs at the National Portrait Gallery of the Smithsonian Institute, Amy Sherald directly addresses the notorious absence of black men, women, and children, in American portraiture. Her portraits are radiant, and only temporal in the way her subjects are dressed and positioned to tell a story.

A video of her work, included in the exhibit, shows the elaborate photoshoots and staging of her portraits, using actors. For example, the show’s poster--Any Sherald’s 2022 painting For love and for country, depicting two queer sailors kissing-- is directly reminiscent of the world-famous (1945) photograph by Alfred Eisenstaedt, titled V-J Day in Times Square. A portrait where, in fact, the 1945 kissing subjects were simply swapped and replaced by the two kissing queer black men, on a brilliant turquoise background. In Any Sherald's take, the two subjects, in the exact same position, are also completely oblivious of the world, as they claim their love. Love also, in 2022, of a more tolerant, red, white and blue country, shown with the blue striped shirt, red bandana and white sailor hat.

Amy Sherald identifies with a tradition of American realism represented by Edward Hopper and Andrew Wyeth. But her realism celebrates the sublime individual, vibrantly cloaked. Plus, Amy Sherald quotes extensively from such black literary geniuses as Zora Neale Hurston and Toni Morrison for the titles* complementing her portraits. For example, from Morrison’s Beloved, she titles two of her 2015 portraits: Freeing herself was one thing, taking ownership of that freed self was another and Fact was she knew more about them than she knew about herself, having never had the map to discover what she was like.

After the San Francisco MOMA, the show moves on to the Whitney Museum, in New York City. 

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*Portrait titles from top to bottom: Grand Dame Queenie (2013), Precious jewels by the sea (2019), For love and for country (2022), Kingdom (2023), Michelle LaVaughn Robinson Obama (2018), The bathers (2015), A god blessed land (Empire of Dirt) (2022), They call me Redbone but I'd rather be Strawberry Shortcake (2009), Untitled (2018), Breonna Taylor (2020), The boy with no past (2014), When I let go of what I am, I become what I might be (Self-imagined atlas)(2018).

References
Amy Sherald: American Sublime.
Exhibit at the SF MOMA, November 16 to March 9, 2024.
Chan, C. (Sept. 2024). Quiet Beauty: Amy Sherald’s American Art.  SF MOMA.  
https://www.sfmoma.org/read/quiet-beauty-amy-sheralds-american-art/ 

More from the scene of That Famous V-J Day Kiss in Times Square. Life Magazine. 
https://www.life.com/history/v-j-day-kiss-times-square/

Smith, R. (Sept. 12, 2019). Amy Sherald's shining second act. NYTimes. 

https://www.nytimes.com/2019/09/12/arts/design/amy-sherald-michelle-obama-hauser-wirth.html 

Wordmarked - Illustrated Patagonia®

Copyright © Françoise Herrmann

Patagonia®'s familiar and illustrated wordmark is described at the United States Patent and Trademark Office (USPTO), Trademark Electronic Search System (TESS). The Patagonia® wordmark description specifies: 'Illustration drawing which includes words', 'Mountains (landscapes); Scenery with mountains', 'Rectangles that are completely or partially shaded' and 'lined with the colors blue, purple, and orange'. This illustrated wordmark was first filed on May 20, 1983, and registered on June 19, 1984 as No.1294523, with the US Serial No.73426881. Most recently, the registration was renewed on March 22, 2024.

Below, the black and white drawing on file at the USPTO's TESS, together with a color version, and a picture of the real, breathtaking, patagonia landscape (on the Chilean side). An untouched landscape of mountains, lakes, and glaciers that inspired the trademark illustration, as well as the company’s stewardship.

As a reminder, Patagonia® Inc., was founded in 1973 by Yvon Chouinard, an expert mountain climber, who invented a mountain climbing chock, in 1976. This invention was granted the US patent, US3948485A, titled Irregular, polygonal mountaineering chock. The patented mountain climbing chock was specifically designed to address the issue of rock scarring, caused by the previous sorts of mountain-climbing equipment.

References

Patagonia® Outdoor Clothing and Gear

www.Patagonia.com  

Patagonia® Works

https://www.patagoniaworks.com

Patagonia® Provisions

https://www.patagoniaprovisions.com  

Terminology - Merriam Webster WOTY 2024

Copyright © Françoise Herrmann

Merriam-Webster, the largest American dictionary, selected the term 'polarization' as the 2024 Word Of The Year (WOTY). A term that spiked in the dictionary’s record of online searches. A term arising in a presidential election year in the United States. Although oddly enough, according to Merriam-Webster, this was a term that both political parties used, and agreed on, despite the sharp divergences of their campaigns.

Merriam-Webster's definition of the term 'polarization' is the following:

“division into two sharply distinct opposites; especially, a state in which the opinions, beliefs, or interests of a group or society no longer range along a continuum but become concentrated at opposing extremes.”

Originally, however, the term came into the English language via science. The science of electricity, as early as the 1800s.

The term 'polarization' competed with other 2024 terms, such as totality, demure, fortnight, pander, resonate, allision, weird, cognitive and democracy. Terms that also arose in the US presidential campaign, or Taylor Swift’s spectacular concert tours, and when the container ship Dali struck the Francis Scott Key Bridge in Baltimore, causing the bridge to collapse.

Reference

Merriam-Webster Word of the Year 2024

https://www.merriam-webster.com/wordplay/word-of-the-year